Collar and method of making the same



Dec. 7, 1937. R M D EQ 2,101,798

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Feb. 19, 1956 2 Sheets Sheet l I72 venzaz' Lvu-zls' f. Malaise,

5 MW @QM 2 v Dec. 7, 1937. L, P; MADSEN 2,101,798

( DOLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Feb. 19, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 fizvelz for; .Louzl 1PM adseu,

Patented Dec. E937 r se aromas METHOD OF MAKING THE Louis P. Marisen, 'iroy, N. Y assignmto Cluett,

lieay a (70., line}..- Troy, N. Y a corporation of New Yorh Application February 19, i936, Serial .No. 64,695

l jected to appropriate treatment including pres sure and/or heat.

In accordance with usual constructions the front and rear plies of the top, and also those of the band, are of substantially equal width so that the seam which unites the top and band includes folded margins of the front, rear and interliner piles of the band, between which are disposed the lower edges of the front and rear plies and the interlining of the top. This results in a heavy ridge or wale immediately below the fold line of the top (whichin fact'is defined by the upper edge of such ridge or Wale) so that if it be attempted to fuse the collar after union of the top and band, this heavy ridge or Wale relieves the pressure upon the thinner material just above the ridge or wale to such an extent as to prevent thorough fusion of the plies in the region at which folding takes place. Thereafter, when in use, these plies tend toseparate or blister adjacent to the line of fold thus destroying the utility of the collar as an article of the self-stifiened type. For this reason it has heretofore been deemed essential to fuse the top before it is associated with the band in order to insure thorough fusion of the top plies. How- ,35 ever, such fusion of the top before its association with the band makes its attachment to the band more dimcult and, if the band is also to be fused, necessitates a second fusing operation after union of the top and band, a procedure which adds me.-

terially to the cost of manufacture and which is not conducive to the long life or good appearance of the top.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a collar of the fused type comprising distinct top and band portions and having the constituent plies of the top'flrmly and permanently integrated at the region of the fold line. A further object is to provide a collar comprising distinct top and band portions in which the con- 5 stituent plies of both the top and band are fused and permanently united throughout the areas of the top and band respectively.

Another object is to provide a method of makingcollars of the above typewhereby the effec- 5 tive fusion of the top plies may be carried out easfly and with certainty in a single operation after union of the top and band.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear from'the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying 5 drawings, wherein Fig. l is a front elevation of the improved collar in its completed state and before'folding;

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the collar illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of one end of the collar after folding;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic vertical section, substantially on the line d--@ of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view, generally simin5 lar to Fig. 4, but indicating the relative positions of the several parts after the collar has been raided;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a facing ply blank for the top of the collar;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of a rear ply blank for the top of the collar;

Fig. .8 is a plan view of-a stiffening and integrating interlining for the top;

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a front or iacing ply 2'5 blank for the band portion or" the collar;

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the rear ply'blank for the band portion of the collar; I

Fig. 11 is a plan view of a stifiening and integrating interlining for the band portion of the col= tit is to say unfolded, and presenting to view that side which, after the collar is folded, forms the exposed face or surface of the band and the exposed or outer face of the top. When'in use the; 45 collar is folded as indicated at 3 in Fig. 3, the fold line extending longitudinally of the collar intermediate its upper and lower edges. The band portion is provided with the usual buttonhdles d if,

as illustrated, the collar is a detached collar, it being understood, however, that the present invention isalso' applicable to collars of the attached type in which event the band portion will 1 be secured to the shirt by stitches in the usual 5 manner.

In the manufacture of the collar in accordance with the present invention a facing ply blank 5 along its margins at the indicated fold lines 5' and for the attachment of its lower edge to the band portion. A rear ply blank 1 is also cut from suitable material to form the rear face of the collar top, such rear member I also being cut to somewhat larger dimensions than the top of the finished collar to provide the requisite material for folding in at the margins along the fold line indicated at 1 By comparison of Figs. 6 and 7 it will be evident that the rear ply member I is substantially narrower (atieast at its mid-portion) than the front ply member 5, the latter having a downwardly convex lower edge 6 which makes it substantially wider at its center than at its ends while the member 'I has an upwardly concave lower edge I.

An interliner member 8 (Fig. 8) is cut from appropriate material, such material preferably having inclusions of a substance which when properly treated becomes adhesive and capable of bonding together or integrating the several plies of the I collar. For example, this interliner 8 may be made from woven textile fabric in which threads at regular intervals, either warpor weft threads, or both, are of a cellulose derivative, for instance cellulose acetate, which when subjected to an appropriate solvent and then to pressure and/or heat becomes sticky and then sets so firmly as to unite partswith which it may contact. The adhesive material employed for this purpose should be distinguishedfrom starch or other adhesive substances which are affected by moisture. since the adhesive here employed is moisture-resistant and is designed to form. a permanent stiii'ener not substantially affected by laundering operations and which-will permanently unite the parts between which it is interposed. Preferably this adhesive or integrating element should not extend over the entire surface area of the part 8,desirably being distributed substantially uniformly over such area in such a way as to constitute not more than 30% of the latter. The part l-is preferably substantially of the same dimensions as the part 5 so as to be coextensive with the latter when the parts are registered, the part I being cut to proper dimensions to permit its margin be folded in along the fold line at I.

A facing ply blank 9 for the band portion of the collar is alsocut from material appropriate for such use, such band portion preferably having a concavely curved upper edge I. and being cut to dimensions such as to allow for a margin folded along the line'indicated at 0'.

A rear ply blank ill for the band portion is also cut from suitable material, such rear ply ll being substantially as wide as the front ply l and having the convexly curved edge ll so that the central portion of this ply I0 is substantially wider than its ends. An

interliner I2 is also cut, from suitable material,

preferably of asize approximating that of the front ply member 9 although it is not essential nor perhaps desirable that this interliner member l2 have a turned or folded margin. This interliner I! may be of any usual textile material such as is commonly used as an interline'r'for a collar if the band is to be left soft or unfu'sed, or, if pre-; ferred, this interliner may be of material like 9r similar to that of the interliner I.

latter, the procedure then being substantially as follows:-'-

The margins of the members 9, I0 and i2 are folded,the members are placed in registry, and then united along their lower edges and at their ends by a seam l6, (Fig. 4). The lower edges of the united top plies 5, 1 and 8 are then introduced between the folded upper margins of the band plies 9 and I2 and the rear band ply Hi and united by a seam I! which extends through all of the plies. Finally, the free turned upper edge of the band ply i0 is united by a seam H to the lower edge of the ply i of the top, the stitches of the seam It also passing through the top plies 5 and I. Thereafter, the buttonholes 4 are formed in the ends of the band portion.

From inspection of Fig. 4 it may be noted that the front or facing ply 5 of the top, together with the interliner. member 8, extends downwardly below the seam M which unites the top of the rear ply of the band to the lower edge of the rear ply I of the top. It will also be noted that the rear ply I of the top terminates immediately below the scam I so that the interliner member 8 is directly exposed, below the seam H, for contact with the upper part of the rear ply iii of the band. Below the lower edge of the interliner I, the interliner I! of the band is exposed for contact with the rear ply ill of the band. I A

After the collar has been thus far completed it is treated with some appropriate solvent for the stiflener material in the interliner members 8 and I2 and is then placed upon the bed B of an appropriate press (Fig. 12) having a movable platen P which may be heated by means of a heating coil C, if desired. When the platen of the pressis brought down upon the collar resting-on the bed B, the interliner 8 and the facing ply 5 are forced downwardly against the rear plies I and i0, and since the seam It includes but two thicknesses of the band material, the several plies are compressed and integrated thoroughly and completelyso that throughout the region at which folding takes place (which is immediately above the seam ll) the piles are firmly united so that they do not show any tendency to separate during use. In so fusing the parts together, the lower portion of ,the'plies 5 and I, which extend continuously and without interruption from the top of the collar downwardly across the seam ll as far as the seam II, are united to the rear ply 1 'throughout its entire area and also directly to the the latter be of fusible type. Thus a completely integrated self-stiffened collar is produced in a single fusing operation and without necessitatto the use of auxiliary elements such as included and band are united by a seam at 22. By reason of the large number of thicknesses of material at the region of the seam 22 it is substantially impossible to apply sufficient pressure by means of the platen to cause secure fusion or adhesion of the plies of the top at the points 23 and 24 adjacent to the seam 22, since the thick bulk of material at the seam 22 relieves the pressure upon the plies of the top at the regions indicated at 23 and 24 so that insufl'lcient pressure is exerted at these points to insure proper. fusion.

As already noted, the front ply and the interliner 8 both extend continuously from the top edge of the collar and across the fold line and as they are firmly and uniformly united at the region of the fold, repeated foldings do not occasion any separation or blistering at this point.

For convenience in description that side of the collar shown in Fig. 1 has been referred to as the front side and that side illustrated in Fig. 2 as the rear side, while the uppermost edge as shown in Fig. 1 is regarded as the top and the opposite edge as the bottom edge of the collar, although itis understood that inuse, after-the collar has been folded, such relationships do not necessarily apply.

It is further to be understoodthat the exact sequence of steps in assembling the collar parts as above suggested need not necessarily be followed and that any usual and desirable mode of uniting the several plies may be practiced.

It is further obvious that any appropriate ma,- terials useful in collar manufacture may .be employed in forming the constituent elements of the collar with the understanding, however, that -the interlining and stiffening ply 8, (and also the ply l2 if the band is to be stiif) will be of a character such as is commonly used .in the manufacture of fused collars or the equivalent thereof, that is to say capable of becoming adhesive thereby permanently to unite adjacent plies.

I claim:

1. A multi-ply fold-over collar of the fused, self-stiffened type comprising a top portion including a facing ply and a rear ply, the facing ply being wider than the rear ply at the central portion at least of the collar, an integrating stiffeing element substantially coextensive with the facing ply, a band portion comprising a facing ply, an interliner, and a rear ply, the upper edge of the front ply of the band being concave and the upper edge of the rear ply of the band being convex, the facing plies of the top and band being united by a seam located below the fold line, said seam uniting but six thicknesses of material, and the rear plies of the top and band being united by a curved seam which substantially defines the fold line, said seam uniting but five thicknesses of materia1,the integrating stiffening element extending uninterruptedly across the fold line and permanently uniting the front ply of the top directly to both the rear ply of the top and the upper part of the rear ply of the band.

2, The method of making multi-ply fold-over collars of the fused, self-stiffened type which comprises as steps preparing front and rear top blanks, the rear .top blank being of less width than the front top blank, preparing an interliner blank for the top, said top interliner blank being of substantially the same width as the front top blank and comprising a normally dry adhesive substance, preparing front, interliner and rear band blanks, the bandinterliner blank being narrower than the front band blank, arranging and uniting the top blanks to form a top inwhich the'front and interliner top blanks extend down below the lower edge of the rear top blank, arranging and uniting the band blanks to form a band in which the rear band blank extends upwardly beyond the upper edges of the front and interliner band blanks, folding the upper. edge of the front band blank over the unfolded edge of the interliner band blank to form a margin of triple thickness, folding the upper edge of the rear .band blank upon'itself to form a margin of double thickness, interposing the lower edges of the front and interliner top blanks between the triple thickness margin of the band and the rear band blank thereby to formsix thicknesses of material, uniting said six thicknesses by a sewed seam, interposing the lower edge of the rear top blank between the double thickness margin of the rear band blank and the intermediate and front top blanks thereby providing five thicknesses of material, uniting said five thicknesses of material by a sewed seam which defines the fold line, subjecting the parts to the action of a solvent for the 1 adhesive substance of the-interliner and to pres- 

